Interesting article in the NYT a few weeks ago about an Italian family, Barbera, who make artisan fabrics. They use traditional methods, age the fabrics for months, work by hand and are struggling to make ends meet. Much like a meaningless cellared in Canada law or the fact that wines made with organic grapes only need to be 70% organic, Luciano Barbera has to deal with a new Made in Italy law. This is the usual watered-down, corporate lobbyist style law that looks good but is merely a facade. Luciano knows battling against corporate interests like Versace is difficult to say the least and supports a simpler solution- transparency. But much like companies opposed to clearer food labeling laws, Santo Versace argues that a clear label would confuse consumers.

“In a phone interview, Mr. Versace noted that there was no “Made in Italy” rule before the law he co-wrote, which means his rule is a huge improvement on the free-for-all that had existed. Yes, his company makes less expensive products, like jeans, in countries like Croatia and Turkey, but he said every luxury brand does the same.

“Never our top stuff,” he said, through an interpreter. “All of that is made in Italy.”

He sounded skeptical about one of Mr. Barbera’s ideas: a label that simply lays out the origins of a garment, stating where its fabric was made, where it was constructed, and so on.

“You can’t make a label too complicated,” said Mr. Versace. “You need a simplified label. Otherwise you can’t sell things.”

I was musing about how backwards the world of food is and came across this post by Alice Feiring on Saignee. I already knew this, but wine is bizarro too.

“Now, if there is a wine without artifice does someone else make artificial wine?


Yes.


If there is natural wine, does that mean others are unnatural?

Yes.

Any wine that deploys aromatic yeasts, enzymes, bacteria, new oak, toasted oak, oak additives, tannins, gum arabic, reverse osmosis for concentration or alcohol removal, spinning cone, excessive sugar, mega-purple thermo-vinification, cold-soaking, anti-foaming agents, ultra-sulfuring and god knows what else, in any combination, is far from natural. To argue the point is being combative, or desperate.

This is an unstoppable story, and the plot line gets juicier. California is returning to native yeast. We have our clutch of natural winemakers, are own band de cinq! The reliance on additives is being challenged. But industrial wine will not go down in the rip tide. Lots of people just like thick wine they can depend on year after year. However, to make sure they don’t lose market, brands looking for the loophole will squirrel a way to natural wine flavor extensions just the way Häagen-Dazs has their (actually decent) Five Ingredients. (“Because we make Häagen-Dazs products in the most natural way possible-…. .” Yes, natural IS problematic, but so what?) A name and definition can’t prevent the inevitable dilution and commercialization.” ~ Alice Feiring, posting at Cory’s 32 Days of Natural Wine.

Listen to Anthony Nicalo of Farmstead Wines on At the Root of It with Erin Fitzpatrick

Good video synopsis of biodynamic farming from OrganicNationTV. I think that extending these principles into the cellar, i.e a self sufficient farm is vitally important to making great wine.

Some of my thinking on biodynamic farming and wine here.

For more information on biodynamics and wine, check out Geoffrey Finch’s In Vino Veritas

Mussel Chowder with Parsnips and Tarragon, as featured in the SeaChoice Calendar

1 Large Leek, diced
1 Small fennel bulb, finely diced
1 Shallot, minced
4 Parsnips, peeled and diced
1 Cup of White Wine
1 Cup of Whole Milk
1 Pound (454 grams) Mussels, rinsed and cleaned
1 Tablespoon Fresh Tarragon, chopped
Olive Oil
Salt

Sweat leek, shallot and fennel over low heat in a little bit of olive oil. When the vegetables begin to soften and turn translucent, turn up the heat to medium and add the parsnips. Saute for a few minutes until all vegetables just begin to colour and add the mussels. Add the white wine and cover until mussels are nearly cooked. Remove lid, add milk, tarragon and season to taste. Serve with crostini or crusty bread.

Lots of white wines will work for pairing, but for a real wow, try a young, vibrant red. The earthiness of the parsnips and the anise notes of the fennel and tarragon will really shine when matched with a young Austrian red. Austria is more famous for their Rieslings and Gruner Veltliners, but the red wines in a region known as Burgenland are outstanding. A favourite is a fresh and lively blend of two native varietals (Blaufrankisch and St. Laurent) from Claus Preisinger called “Basic 2007.”

Last week I visited Vista D’oro Farm and had a tour of their vineyards, walnut grove and orchards with Patrick Murphy. I was pleasantly surprised- they are making some nice wines. They are also using a neat natural trick to keep voles out of their vineyard: