The piles of compost at Domaine Gauby do not generate the same press coverage that Michel Rolland  receives, but they should. In our celebrity culture socialites, chefs, and winemakers have become the new stars. Its too bad because acting used to be a craft, chefs most important job is to find great ingredients and the best winemakers grow their own grapes. It is not about winemaking, it is about winegrowing. My spell check recognizes winemaking but not winegrowing! The best wines are made in the vineyards. Farmers (yes grapes are farmed) painstakingly raise great tasting grapes by carefully tending their vines and the earth. Once harvested they let the flavors of the grapes shine by leaving them alone as much as possible. Wine is a product of the earth, not the laboratory.