Most people (and rightly so) think that traipsing around Italy hunting for wine is easy. It is definitely much easier than my former job as a chef. Undeniably, it is a breeze compared to the work of the people I am seeking- high quality farming. The long flights, the driving and the time away from my family are all bearable when things go smoothly. But the truth of current farming and winemaking practices mean that things rarely go smoothly. I met with an interesting, intelligent and genuinely nice guy. He and his family were more than hospitable. The vineyards were well cared for. The wines were very good.  We would be able to sell the wine at a good price. The labels are pretty. All of these factors together would make these wines a slam dunk for most importers. Sounds good, right? But, at the end of the day, I don't feel comfortable putting a Farmstead seal on the bottle. Our selection criteria are really difficult to meet. In this case, they grow the grapes themselves (his father runs the farm), but they hire a consultant to make the wine. Although I might drink some myself, it does not qualify as a Farmstead Wine. It is not made by a vinaroon.